DAY 3- Cave Bank, Bike Rides, Pens & Candy, Indian Indian Indian

Nong Khiaw, Laos
October 25, 2013

“We’ll have one vegetable korma, one muttar panneer, two nans, and one rice” I said to the waiter who must have just woken up. “Anything else Katie?” I ask.
“I’ll have a masala chai” She says.
“Me too. Make that two. I’m 30 years old and this is the first time I’m having Indian for breakfast. It’s a good day.” I tell our waiter

He doesn’t seem to care. He just feigns some morning smile and walks away to prepare our food.

Travel Laos Nong Khiaw bikes

After breakfast we rent a couple of bicycles with baskets and go explore the sleeping countryside. We set off for a cave. We walked our bikes down a rocky path to a rickety booth set up along a steady creek. Somewhere inside the mountain hanging over our heads like a piñata is the cave. The woman, womaning the booth is breastfeeding her child with a litter of children around her. Now I see where the dogs get the idea. We pay her almost nothing to enter and we rent a headlamp off her for also next to nothing.

Travel Laos Nong Khiaw biking lou

Ahead three kids cross a makeshift bridge that is nothing more than tree limbs tied together with bamboo. It looks shotty but we make it over safe. The kids are going to be our guides we can only assume. All three of them were chatting to each other ahead of us making small talk like it was just another day on the job. They were no older than 13.

“What is your name?” One asks me.
“Louis” I said

The three of them mull it over between themselves

“Ahh Louis, yes. “ I imagined them getting back to there conversation. So I got home late last night to the wife, and she could tell immediately that I’d been drinking, but I was like No, baby I was good I just had a coke. “Sorry what’s your name?” “Louis” I said. Ahh Louis. Ok so like I was saying….


The kids rambled on the whole walk nonchalantly. I knew we’d be stuck tipping them. We all climbed up this long and steep ladder- think Snakes & Ladders steep. You know that lucky leap right near the beginning of the board where you climb to the second last row, then BAM we were into the mouth of a cave.

Travel Laos Nong Khiaw cave

We read that the cave was converted into a bank in the late 60’s during the war. Although the cave we went into showed no signs of any teller booths or offices or even seating outside of offices. The kids shown their flashlights into some holes in the limestone and called us over to see some bats. There they were all crunched up sleeping in little holes deep inside the rock like corner pockets on a pool table.

We climbed down knowing there had to be more to this mountain.
“Hey” I mouthed to the kids “more caves? I said pointing.
“No.” they shook their heads.
“Fuck it, Katie. Let’s just go this way we already paid. Lets go explore.”

Katie was on board. And so the kids followed. We wrapped around the base of the mountain along a path, underneath a blanket of forest until we ran into another group of tourists.

“Amazing!” said a woman
“Totally worth the trek,” said another.

We looked back at the kids like you little fuckers! Not far ahead we came to another mouth of a cave with an aged placard with a worn-out blue patina that read “The Bawk Office of Luang Prabang” and on a second line “Betwten 1968 – 1975”. We climbed inside and couldn’t believe our eyes, which needed to be lit up with headlamps.

Kids drawing pictures of themselves at the cave

Kids drawing pictures of themselves at the cave


We found it. No thanks to the kids who obviously knew about it because they darted by Travel Laos Nong Khiaw caves 3and said “three caves” pointing to three different tunnels for us to explore. Passing my bag to Katie I crept through the first one until she handed it back and crept through herself. It was void of any sign of light. We crept our way down and down and down snaking through this eerie cave that somehow used to be a bank. I tried to picture it in use, but it was impossible. There was no place to sit. Where would they put a desk? Did they use candles? This is just fucked up is what mostly ran through my head.

Travel Laos Nong Khiaw caves 2

We crept back through and then went into another tunnel. It was all dark and all the same but it was just amazing to experience it. To be able to walk through a piece of history. Only I have a camera around my neck and can leave this place at my own will. We climb out and end up back at the creek out front of the booth. The kids are taking off their shorts and going swimming. I join them.


Further down the road we found a village of children shouting out to us as we rode past, but what they were shouting for really touched us. Throughout the whole trip kids have been at our heels with palms out pouting “money, money, money” while some of them shouted it as if they didn’t even know what money was and just that it was the thing to do. But these kids shouted for pens and candy.

Pens and candy. These kids want for pens. What an honest thing to want. They want to draw, to learn, to create. How sad is that pens are such a necessity. If I had known I would have stopped and loaded up.

It’s actually quite funny because pens and candy are two things that I had recently written on a list of things to get when I get to Hanoi. It’s not that I can’t write with any pen; it’s just that I prefer my trusty Uni-ball Micro, in either blue or black. See I’m not that picky. And candy, well that’s just a given.

We ride past the kids apologizing until we climb a big hill and they are out of sight. Katie and I had both loaded up on Uni-ball’s in Hanoi and we had about seven between the two of us. That along with a couple shitty pens that float around at the bottom of her purse.

“Katie, let’s go back there.” I said, as she’s already fiddling through her purse with the same idea.
“We can get more pens. But we can totally help these kids out.”
We turn around and coast to a cascade where the bunch of children had now congregated.

“Pens. We have pens” I shouted as they all gathered around. There were four of them and we had three pens. I explained the best I could that they need to be shared and before they get them, that they had to draw a picture of themselves. It’s something of a habit I’ve gotten into while traveling and it’s a funny way to break the ice.


We kept riding until the sunset and then rode some more. It was night time and we were tired and hungry. The waiter brought us two menus with a smile.

Don’t bother I already know what I want. And yes it tasted just as good for dinner.

KT: Before dinner I sauntered over to an Herbal Steam bath place to get my steam on. It was one of the most relaxing times so far this trip. I had the steam bath to myself and when I needed a break from the heat I could step out into the fresh country air and sip on some tea. I also ended up buying a really neat scarf/wrap/sarong thing from an older lady that lived next door. When I went back to the room Louis was hella jealous and tried to go after me, but they closed! Muahaha.

Some of the herbs they boil into the water for the herbal steam bath

Some of the herbs they boil into the water for the herbal steam bath

Paradise Cave – Man’s Second Last Frontier

Dong Hoi, Vietnam
October 7, 2013


We negotiated a deal at the hotel. So low that the manager had to come out and whisper because guests filled the lobby. We got breakfast included for an extra $2 each, as you guessed: eggs and baguettes. We ate, grabbed a map from the hotel and spun out of Dong Hoi to the Ho Chi Minh Highway which would lead us all the way to Paradise Cave. The road was everything we had been looking for. Foreign. Scenic. Empty and fucking twisted.

Yasss Yasss Yasss!

Yasss Yasss Yasss!

We passed further trail of destruction by typhoon Wutip. Rubber trees bent on end. Toppled power lines lying face down in the mud. We shruggingly continued. Since the highway runs through the interior of the highlands, big rigs and transportation vehicles are few Travel Vietnam badass usand far to be seen. Leave them on the AH1 along with all the other cursing drivers. And since the road was showing vacancy we roared our biked up to 70-80km, which is like racing the Daytona for a Honda Win. And the entire hour and an half we kept the bikes revving at max until we rounded a turn and were slapped in the face with the epic Phong Nga National Park mountain range. A mountain range of dark misshapen humps of ten thousand roaming oxen. An abacus of bushy green peaks and valleys – all masking the white rocky karst.

Travel Vietnam Lou touches Oxen

We entered the park and ended up at a dead end. Not your average dead end though. This dead end was caused by a giant mountain standing straight upright like a ladder when you clean your gutters. And a waterway than ran into a mouth of the mountain. Unfortunately, we were on the opposite side of the waterway. The side lacking the nautical vessels to guide us into the caves mouth. It was the wrong cave anyways. We turned around, maneuvered over a cobble passageway and lit out. It turns out we took the wrong turn. We had our bearings and exited the National Park with the route to flank the parks enormous perimeter.

Travel Vietnam Phong Nha national park

We found our entrance twenty minutes down the road and we took it. This road ran along the ankles of the mountain range and was home to its own secluded village on the banks of a stream that pulsed from the mountain. Winding along the country road we passed a church, restaurants, wandering ox, and hedonistic plains filled with chickens and ox grunting and clucking and rubbing their horns into the cool black mud along the turquoise streams embankment until the water swirled with black debris. Then we passed the funeral of a child. In a tiny casket sitting on the seat of a motorcycle, hands from the village pushed the bike along with the rest of the village in trail. All with solemn faces. We slowed our motorbikes to a snails pace and with sloped eyes and pouty lips shared our condolences. We passed, sped up and pointed our bikes onward as if we were flowing down a funnel.

We found a sign and made a right. It led us to a parking lot where we paid and bought tickets before climbing the 800 meters up the side of a mountain. There was a small opening with a staircase that we had to traverse as if being swallowed by the moon. We

Not the entrance you'd expect!

Not the entrance you’d expect!

walked inside the mouth of a hollow mountain. Our eyes bulged as if we had just uncovered a lost treasure. But instead of gold, diamonds and rubies, there were stalactites like giant earthy fangs, flowing rocks as fine and detailed as a single strand of hair, and tiered plateaus filled to the lips like a stone rice paddy. It was as if a magic trick had been uncovered before our eyes. Pure. Sweet. Flawless. No human could mimic that of a million years of the earth’s diligence. We oohed and awed ourselves through the first kilometer of the cave. The farthest distance allowed out of the 31 it is deep. And with peaks as high as 100 meters and a width as wide as 150 meters there was a hell of a lot of oohing and awing going on. We climbed out and back to sunlight. The second time on the trip where we had to re-enter civilization.

Travel Vietnam huge cave


Travel Vietnam cave eek

The ride back was just as peaceful and serene. That night we ended up at the same restaurant eating the same meal. Katie a bowl of pho and myself a plate of pho xao. A dish of wok fried noodles mixed with a mélange Viet veggies and thinly sliced beef all dressed in a splash of soy. We had 600km to Hanoi and tomorrow we planned on taking a hefty crack at it -  and this time without the faintest idea of where we would end up.

Travel Vietnam cave wow